Our December jewellery edit is the one that closes the year. The big-house wishlists are everywhere this time of year — we leave those to Vogue. The independent jewellers we follow have spent 2019 quietly producing some of the most exciting fine jewellery work in years, and these are the names worth knowing as you put together a meaningful gift or a serious self-purchase before the new decade.
Foundrae continues to define the talisman category
Foundrae is now four years into the medallion-and-coin world Beth Bugdaycay has built, and the brand has gone from indie favorite to the new prestige default. The Karma medallion and the Strength Cigar Band are the two pieces every editor has on her wrist or neck this year. Prices climb fast, but the work is permanent — these pieces are designed for grandchildren. The new Tomoye crescent for 2019 is the piece we would buy if we were stretching the budget.
Sophie Buhai has become the architect’s jeweller
Sophie Buhai has spent the year producing the most architecturally-considered fine jewellery being made in Los Angeles. Her sterling silver and 18k gold work — the Dot earrings, the Egg ring, the Hardware bangle — speaks to women who own one piece of jewellery, want it to last forever, and are not interested in trend-driven design. The pieces have a Brutalist confidence that goes equally well with denim and with evening tailoring.
Jacquie Aiche’s body chains are the Saint Laurent of jewellery
Jacquie Aiche has been the LA-cool jeweller of the decade, and her body chains have become the over-shoulder, under-blazer accessory of 2019. The Bohemian Body Chain in 14k yellow gold is the heirloom piece. The single hoop earrings layered three at a time — JA’s signature — are the entry-level commitment. The brand sits at a useful prestige tier between Sophie Buhai and Foundrae.
Sophie Bille Brahe, still the Copenhagen answer
Sophie Bille Brahe remains the only Copenhagen jeweller worth flying the dollar to. Her Croissant De Lune ear cuff and the Petit Boucle pearl earring have appeared in every fashion editorial this year, and the brand has expanded from her trademark pearl work into more colored gems. The piece to buy: the single Petite Boucle. The piece to dream about: the Croissant De Lune ear cuff.
Anita Ko remains the celebrity quiet pick
Anita Ko has spent the decade quietly building the celebrity follower list that other jewellers want. Her diamond stud collection — pavé, single stone, threaded — covers the entire range from gateway to investment, and the threader earring she popularized is now in every prestige jewellery brand’s catalog as a copy. The Anita Ko original threader, in 18k yellow gold with diamond, is the right one to buy.
Beck Jewels for the everyday luxury layer
Beck Jewels sits at the entry-luxury tier and produces some of the most flattering layering chains in the indie market. The Bahia layered necklace and the colored bead bracelets pair effortlessly with Foundrae or Sophie Buhai pieces, and at a price point that makes them giftable for friends rather than just for yourself.
Our December gift list, ranked by price
Under five hundred dollars: a Sophie Buhai Dot earring or a Beck Jewels Bahia chain. Under two thousand: a Anita Ko threader earring or a Sophie Bille Brahe Petite Boucle. Under five thousand: a Foundrae Strength Cigar Band. Sky’s the limit: a Foundrae Karma medallion in your chosen tone, on a heavy chain. We will see you in the spring for fashion at the equinox.