The Summer 2018 jewellery roundup is the third we have written for the blog, and the independent fine-jewellery category has continued to mature into one of the most interesting small-creator markets in fashion. Where 2017 was about establishing the names — Sophie Buhai, Foundrae, Wwake — 2018 has been about a second wave of houses that have built distinct visual languages and earned editorial loyalty. The six lines below are makers whose work has earned a place on our wish lists this summer, and most of them are now stocked at Net-a-Porter, Twist, or Catbird in addition to their direct e-commerce sites. The category is healthy. The pricing is honest. The pieces hold up over time.
Maria Tash and the new piercing-as-jewellery moment
The most influential single piercing-and-jewellery house of the decade is Maria Tash, the New York-based fine-jewellery brand whose tiny diamond and stone-set studs, hoops, and ear-curves have effectively created the contemporary “ear curation” aesthetic. The Liberty London flagship, opened in 2016, brought the brand into a wider London market; the New York flagships and the wider stockists have built the brand into the conversation default. The pieces are 14k or 18k gold with quality stones; the price point is genuine fine jewellery; the in-store piercing experience is the hook that has built the loyalty. We have a single Maria Tash threaded stud and have refused to upgrade because we are saving for the next one.
Spinelli Kilcollin and the linked-rings revolution
LA-based Spinelli Kilcollin (founded by Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin) has built one of the most recognizable contemporary fine-jewellery silhouettes of the decade — three or four interconnected gold bands that read as a single linked piece. The Galaxy ring (three connected bands with a diamond on each) became the cult engagement-ring alternative of the 2017–2018 cycle. The line has expanded into earrings and necklaces but the multi-band ring remains the signature. Pieces are stocked at Net-a-Porter, Barneys, and a small but growing list of independent retailers. We are saving for a small Galaxy in 18k yellow gold.
Lizzie Mandler and the geometric fine-jewellery moment
LA-based Lizzie Mandler has built a fine-jewellery practice around geometric shapes — knife-edge bangles, hexagonal diamond bands, the signature “Otto” diamond rings with their distinctive cut and setting. The pieces read as both contemporary and architectural; the price point is in line with the upper range of independent fine jewellery (mid-four-figures for the signature pieces). The line has been building editorial momentum quietly for several years and is now appearing on every list we read. Stocked at Net-a-Porter and direct, with a small studio retail experience in LA. We bought a thin diamond bangle in May.
Suzanne Kalan and the baguette-diamond eternity
LA-based Suzanne Kalan has built one of the most distinctive baguette-diamond styles in independent fine jewellery — eternity bands made entirely of baguette-cut diamonds, set in 18k gold, with a subtle architectural rigor that distinguishes the line from the more rounded contemporary pieces in the same category. The “Fireworks” rings — angled baguettes set into starburst silhouettes — have become the brand’s signature. Price points are firmly in the four-figure range, but the value is real for the quality of the stones. Pieces are stocked at Bergdorf and Net-a-Porter. We have not bought yet but the baguette eternity band is on the longer-range list.
Yvonne Léon and the Parisian ear stack
Paris-based Yvonne Léon has built one of the most thoughtful contemporary fine-jewellery practices in Europe — pearl and diamond pieces in 18k gold settings, with a particular focus on the modern ear-stack aesthetic that has dominated the contemporary jewellery conversation. Her pieces have been quietly stocked at Net-a-Porter and at small American retailers (Catbird in Brooklyn carries a portion of the line) and the editorial press has been increasingly enthusiastic. We bought a small pearl-and-diamond stud in May and are quietly building a stack on the second hole.
Marlo Laz and the talisman pendant
NYC-based Marlo Laz has been quietly making the talisman pendants and chain necklaces that the rest of the industry has spent the year imitating. Founded by Jesse Lazowski, the line is anchored around symbolic motifs — eye, hand, snake, sun — set into 14k gold pendants and chains that read as both contemporary and ancient. Price points are accessible relative to the comparable Foundrae range; the silhouettes are distinct enough to be recognizable. Pieces are stocked at Net-a-Porter and direct. We are watching this brand carefully through 2018; the talisman category is going to keep growing.
Closing
The Summer 2018 jewellery list, distilled: a Maria Tash threaded stud, a Spinelli Kilcollin Galaxy ring, a Lizzie Mandler diamond bangle, a Suzanne Kalan baguette band, a Yvonne Léon pearl-and-diamond stud, a Marlo Laz talisman pendant. Six lines we are continuing to track through 2018 and into 2019. The independent fine-jewellery category has reached the maturity where you can build a complete, distinctive jewellery wardrobe entirely from these makers without ever needing to set foot in a Tiffany boutique. The shift is structural. We will see you on the first Tuesday of July for the next monthly roundup.