Four assorted-color lipsticks lined up on a neutral surface

October 2015 in Beauty: What We Were Loving

October opens the part of the year where beauty stops pretending to be casual. The light gets thinner, the sweaters come out of storage, and the bathroom counter starts to rearrange itself around the question of what we actually want to wear when the holidays roll in. We have spent the last few weeks watching the prestige floors at Sephora and Bloomingdale’s reset for fall, listening to Into the Gloss tell us what the editors keep reaching for, and quietly stockpiling backups of anything we might lose to a holiday-eve panic. October is when our routines stop being seasonal whims and start becoming small, defended habits.

Halloween Makeup Got Serious This Year

The Halloween-as-makeup-test trend that has been quietly building for the last three years finally tipped into the mainstream. Instagram is full of seven-step glitter cut-creases, prosthetic detailing, and bridge-of-the-nose galaxies that would have been a special-effects job five years ago. The conversation around it has changed too — the costume is barely the point anymore, the look is the costume, and beauty editors are covering it the way they once covered red carpets. Kryolan and Mehron palettes that used to live behind the counter at theatrical-supply stores are showing up in regular makeup hauls.

What we noticed is that drugstore brands wanted in. NYX built an entire vinyl-look corner of the Halloween section with face paints and metallic liquid liners, and the brand’s Vivid Brights shadow sticks turned out to be the cheap shortcut to most of those galaxy-eye looks we kept saving. The takeaway is simple: if you have ever wanted permission to play, the last week of October is when the rest of the internet is doing it with you.

Pat McGrath Labs and the New Rules of a Beauty Drop

Pat McGrath’s first drop, Gold 001, launched late last month and sold out in six minutes, and we are still thinking about what that means for the rest of the year. The pigment is real — actual gold leaf in a clear gel base — and the launch was unapologetically a single product, in a single size, sold direct, with no second-tier wholesale strategy in sight. Pat McGrath Labs turned a backstage trick into a collector’s object, and every other brand watching took notes on what a controlled scarcity launch actually looks like in 2015.

It is also a hint at what is coming. The model — limited drop, direct-to-consumer, sell-out as marketing — is what Kylie Jenner is rumored to be using for the lip kits she has been teasing all summer. We will spend November watching to see whether the second drop sustains the demand or burns the brand’s patience, but for October the lesson is that scarcity is a strategy and the most modern way to launch a beauty product is to make less of it on purpose.

Olaplex Goes Home

The salon-side Olaplex story has been simmering all year, but October is when the home version started actually showing up in friends’ bathrooms. Olaplex No. 3, the at-home perfecting treatment, has been available since the early summer and the cumulative effect of a few months of use is the thing convincing skeptics. We have been watching colorists in Manhattan and Los Angeles quietly hand the bottle to clients on the way out the door, and the testimonial pattern is consistent — bleach-damaged ends behaving better, ponytails catching less, the color holding more saturation between visits.

What is interesting is how it has reframed the conversation around damaged hair. Repair, not concealment, became the headline for fall, and the rest of the category has been responding. Smoothing oils and shine sprays still sell, but the actual money this month went toward bond-rebuilding masks and the small ritual of sitting on the bathroom floor for thirty minutes with a towel on your shoulders.

Holiday Gift Sets Are Already Here

October is gift-set season whether we are ready or not. The Sephora holiday wall went up the first week of the month, Ulta followed two days later, and the prestige department-store counters had their value sets out by mid-month. The thing that surprised us this year is how aggressive the brand-discovery sets are. Charlotte Tilbury has a mini Pillow Talk and Matte Revolution duo that is a clean way in for anyone who has been watching the cult build, and Drunk Elephant packaged a four-step travel kit that is the cheapest possible audition for the full routine.

This is the quiet shift in gifting we have been calling. The “value set” used to be six things from a brand you already loved at twenty percent off; now it is a deliberate sampler aimed at the friend who has been curious but has not yet committed. We are stocking up earlier than usual this year because the better sets — particularly the Charlotte Tilbury and the By Terry Baume de Rose mini — tend to disappear by the first week of December.

Sephora vs Ulta Is Finally a Real Question

For most of the last decade Sephora was the prestige answer and Ulta was where you went for drugstore plus a haircut. October made the lines blur in a way that felt new. Ulta picked up Tarte, IT Cosmetics, and Murad on the prestige side, expanded its Diamond loyalty tier, and started using its salon footprint to lock in the relationship in a way Sephora cannot quite match. The Beauty Insider redesign over at Sephora arrived this month with the Rouge tier rewards expanded, more sample-via-points options, and an early access window for Rouge members on the holiday gift wall.

The two retailers are now competing for the same shopper, which is good news for that shopper. We have been doing the math on which loyalty program actually pays back per dollar spent, and the truthful answer for 2015 is that it depends on what you buy and how often. Anyone heavy on hair color and tools will get more out of Ulta; anyone whose annual spend is concentrated in one or two prestige skincare lines is still better off staying loyal to Sephora.

What We Are Watching For November

Two things are already pulling our attention into next month. The first is the rumored late-November Kylie lip-kit launch, which we have been watching to see if it actually clears the production hurdles or slips into December. The second is the deep-burgundy nail trend that has been building since back-to-school and looks set to fully take over the manicure conversation through the holidays. We are also testing the new Glossier Stretch Concealer that arrived in our cart last week, and we will have proper notes on it before the next post.

Until then, we are putting the lipsticks back in their drawer in the right order, putting one of those Charlotte Tilbury minis aside for an early-bird gift, and easing into the part of the year that takes beauty most seriously. We will see you on the first Tuesday of November.

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